Visiting Semporna: What to Know Before You Go or Transit

While Semporna is best known as the gateway to Sipadan, the town itself is busy and a little rough around the edges. There’s a strange contrast between the visibly messy, poor town and the beautiful islands just a short boat ride away.

Semporna is not the kind of place where I’d spend my holiday wandering around looking for pretty streets or beaches. But after several trips to the area, I also wouldn’t dismiss the town entirely.

I’ve spent more than five weeks diving around Semporna, staying both in town and on Mabul. I like having restaurants to choose from, being able to walk around and explore, and having the freedom to organise my days rather than spending the entire trip at a dive resort.

In this guide, I’ll share what to expect from Semporna, what I think is worth doing, where to stay and how to plan your time in the area.

Is Semporna Worth Visiting?

I think Semporna is worth spending some time in, but it depends on what you’re looking for.

If you’re after white sandy beaches, turquoise water and a tropical island atmosphere, you’ll find that on the surrounding islands, not in town. Semporna is a working fishing town, and it feels very different from the places most people picture when they think of Sabah.

For me, that’s part of the appeal. I enjoy wandering through the streets, trying local food, visiting the seafood markets and simply watching everyday life unfold. You get a glimpse of a side of Malaysia that you wouldn’t necessarily see if you spent your entire trip at a dive resort.

I also won’t pretend that everything you see is easy to take in. The poverty and rubbish around town can be confronting, especially at first. But I think there’s value in seeing a place beyond its postcard views, as long as you approach it with an open mind and respect for the people who live there.

So, would I recommend spending a few days in Semporna? If you’re interested in local life, yes. If you’re mainly here for beaches and island scenery, I’d spend more of your time out on the islands instead.

Things to Do in Semporna and Beyond

Go Island Hopping

I’ve visited several islands around Semporna on my dive trips, including Timba Timba, Mataking and Kapalai. I haven’t actually booked an island-hopping tour myself, as I’ve always been there to dive. But I’ve met plenty of other travellers who visited the islands this way.

If you’re not a diver, or just want a day away from the dive boat, island hopping is worth looking into. You get to see some of the islands without having to book a dive trip, and many tours include stops for snorkelling and time on the beach. Just check which islands are included before booking, as the itineraries vary.

Hike to the Viewpoint on Bohey Dulang

Bohey Dulang is another option if you want to do something other than spend the day on the water. The island is part of Tun Sakaran Marine Park and is known for its viewpoint overlooking the lagoon and the surrounding islands. Getting there involves a steep uphill hike through the forest.

I still haven’t made it up there myself. The first time I visited Semporna, I just couldn’t fit it into my diving schedule, and on my second trip, the weather was not on my side and I couldn’t go. So it’s still on my list for next time.

If you want to do the hike, check the weather and confirm the current arrangements with your tour operator before booking. I’d also plan your day around your diving schedule rather than trying to squeeze everything in.

Explore Semporna Town

I actually enjoy spending time in Semporna town. I like wandering through the streets, trying local food, visiting the seafood market and seeing what everyday life looks like here. The waterfront is worth a walk, too, with its seafood stalls and restaurants, but I wouldn’t limit myself to that area.

I’ve also seen Bajau Laut people both in town and out on the water. In town, I’ve seen children coming up to tourists to beg, which I find heartbreaking. Out at sea, I’ve also seen people bringing fish and fruit they’ve caught or collected to sell to resorts and dive boats.

It’s a reminder that the beautiful islands around Semporna are also home to people whose lives look very different from the ones most visitors experience on holiday.

Seeing these different sides of life around Semporna has stayed with me. It’s something I wouldn’t have experienced if I’d spent all my time at a resort.

Dive Around Semporna

If you’re coming to Semporna to dive Sipadan, I’d definitely spend some time diving the surrounding islands, too. I’ve spent more than five weeks in the area over several trips, and some of my favourite dives weren’t at Sipadan.

Mataking is a good example. Garden of Eden was one of the highlights of my time here, and the dive was just as good as, if not better than, some of my dives at Sipadan. I went in expecting a nice reef and ended up spending 50 minutes drifting over fields of soft coral, with turtles resting among them and sharks passing in the blue. I honestly didn’t want the dive to end.

Mabul is another favourite, although for a completely different reason. I’m a huge macro fan, and I could spend hours looking for nudibranchs, frogfish and other little creatures there. After a few days of Sipadan’s sharks, turtles and big schools of fish, it’s a nice change to slow down and pay attention to what’s right in front of you.

I’ve written more about the different dive sites around Semporna, including what makes Mabul, Kapalai and Mataking worth diving in their own right.

If you’re planning to dive Sipadan, you can also read my guide to diving Sipadan for my experience and an honest take on whether it’s worth the cost. And if you want to know what to expect at the individual sites, I’ve covered the main dive sites on Sipadan in a separate guide.

Where to Stay in Semporna: Town or Islands?

One of the first decisions you’ll need to make is whether to stay in Semporna town or on one of the surrounding islands. The two offer quite different experiences: staying in town gives you easier access to restaurants, markets and everyday local life, while staying on an island puts you closer to the water and your dive or snorkelling trips.

Neither option is automatically better. It depends on your budget, your plans and the kind of experience you’re after.

Where to Eat in Semporna

One of the things I enjoy about staying in Semporna town is the choice of places to eat, from local Malaysian food to seafood and Western dishes. I’ve returned to several of the same restaurants on different trips, and these are the ones I’d recommend.

Wang Wang Soto House – probably my favourite restaurant in Semporna. I love Asian soups, and I keep coming back for the soto soup with mihun. I could happily eat it again and again.

Cham Chuan Kee – my favourite spot for breakfast. Their bread is amazing and reminds me a little of brioche, but I also like their toast and kopi.

JETTY Seafood BBQ – this is a good place for a shared BBQ meal and ordering a few different things for the table. My favourites were actually veggies, the garlic-marinated grilled eggplant and the grilled iceberg lettuce.

Summer Breeze Cafe – great if you fancy a break from local food. They serve Malaysian and Western dishes, including nasi lemak, spaghetti and chicken schnitzel. They also do really nice homemade ice cream.

Fish Village – this is a bit like a food court for seafood. You’ll find several different restaurants, and you can look at the aquariums to see what’s available and what they’ve caught that day. Stonefish is apparently a speciality here, although I haven’t tried it myself.

How Long to Stay in Semporna

If you want to explore Semporna town, I’d spend one or two nights here. That’s enough to get settled, try some local food and have a look around before heading out to the islands.

If you’d rather stay on an island, you can skip the town and head straight to your accommodation on the islands. That’s where you’ll want to spend your time.

For divers planning to use Semporna as a base, the answer depends on how much diving you want to do. But if Sipadan is on your list, I’d schedule at least four to five nights in the area. Permits are limited, and you don’t want to plan your entire trip around getting one on a specific day.

How to Get to Semporna

The easiest way to get to Semporna is to fly to Tawau International Airport (TWU). There are regular flights from Kuala Lumpur and Kota Kinabalu, and from Tawau it’s around 75–90 minutes by road to Semporna.

You can arrange a transfer through your accommodation or book one separately. I’ve done both, and both worked fine. I’d book it in advance rather than rely on finding a driver when you arrive, especially if you’re trying to catch a boat to one of the islands.

If you’re coming from Kota Kinabalu and have more time than money, you can also travel by bus, but the journey takes around nine hours.

If you’re staying on Mabul, Kapalai or another nearby island, you’ll need to take a boat from Semporna to your accommodation. Check the boat schedule before booking your flight, as arriving too late can mean spending a night in town before you can continue to the islands.

Best Time to Visit Semporna

You can visit Semporna throughout the year, but if you’re coming mainly for diving, March to June and September to October are generally the best periods to plan your trip. July and August can be good, too, although conditions are less predictable.

Keep in mind that Sipadan is closed throughout November, but you can still dive around Mabul, Kapalai and the other nearby islands.

Practical Tips for Visiting Semporna

Getting Around Semporna

Getting around Semporna town is easy. You can walk to many places or use Grab to get around. There are quite a few stray dogs on the streets, though, which sometimes made me feel uncomfortable when walking around.

Money and ATMs

Cash is king in Semporna, so make sure you have some Malaysian ringgit with you. ATMs are fairly easy to find, although, as elsewhere in Southeast Asia, you might occasionally come across one that’s out of service.

Is Semporna Safe?

I didn’t feel unsafe in Semporna, but I did notice a difference compared with some other Asian countries I’ve visited. Malaysia is a Muslim-majority country, and as a blonde woman walking around town alone, I was very aware of being more noticeable than I might be elsewhere. That’s my personal experience, rather than a reason to avoid visiting.

Mobile Connection and Wi-Fi

Mobile reception varies quite a bit depending on where you are. I wouldn’t rely on having a strong mobile connection everywhere and would plan around using Wi-Fi when you have access to it.

Map of Semporna and the Surrounding Islands

Use this map to find the restaurants, attractions and islands mentioned in this guide. It’s a handy overview for planning your time in Semporna and deciding which places to visit.

Final Thoughts

Semporna might not be love at first sight, but I’ve enjoyed coming back. For me, part of the appeal is seeing a side of Sabah that you miss if you spend your entire trip on the islands. And with so much good diving in the surrounding area, I know I’ll be back again.

Ready to explore more of the area underwater? Start with my guide to diving around Semporna where I share the sites worth exploring beyond Sipadan, including some of my personal favourites.