I spent two weeks in Semporna, exploring the town and the breathtaking islands with their captivating underwater scenes. However, I found myself torn between the stunning beauty of the islands and the evident poverty in the town. Here’s a report on what you can expect when visiting Semporna:
Semporna is a small fishing town near Tawau in Sabah, Malaysia. It’s best known for the islands situated off the coast, often referred to as the Maldives of Malaysia.
However, Semporna itself is far from being a paradise. The town is unlike anything I have seen before.
And let me be clear: if you’re considering a visit to Semporna without an interest in diving or snorkeling, you might want to reconsider. There’s nothing else to see here. You would be missing out on absolutely nothing.
The streets are dirty, with plenty of trash around, and encounters with rats are a common sight at almost every corner. The undeniable presence of poverty is accompanied by daily encounters with begging children. Occasionally, they may approach your table in a restaurant or even follow you to your car, knocking on your window. It’s an uncomfortable reality in Semporna.
On a brighter note, the city has made adjustments to accommodate the increasing tourism. Amidst the simple, rural restaurants and the wooden and metal huts of the locals, you’ll discover international chains such as McDonald’s, KFC, Starbucks, or 7-Eleven.
In the midst of it all, you’ll consistently encounter the fascinating culture of the Bajau-Laut – the seafaring people who call the waters around Semporna home.
These contrasts give the city a very surreal charm.
Semporna serves as the starting point for the surrounding islands. That’s really the only reason tourists come here. There isn’t even a beach here. So, overall, Semporna itself isn’t really worth seeing.
Semporna is especially popular among Asian tourists, with the majority being Chinese. In the two weeks I spent here, I only encountered three Western tourists.
01 – How to Get to Semporna
By Air – The most straightforward way to get to Semporna is by taking a flight. Tawau International Airport (TWU) serves as the nearest airport to Semporna, offering regular connections to Kuala Lumpur and Kota Kinabalu. Once you land at Tawau Airport, Semporna is just a little over an hour’s drive away (approximately 80 kilometers).
A taxi from Tawau Airport to Semporna costs around 95 RM (approximately 20 €). Alternatively, you can ask at your accommodation about transfer options, which are often more budget-friendly than taxis and sometimes even included in the accommodation cost.
By Bus – If you’re coming from Kota Kinabalu, you can take a long-distance bus instead of flying. However, be prepared for a journey of around 9 hours from Kota Kinabalu to Semporna.
Getting Around Semporna
On Foot – Semporna is a small town that’s easily explored on foot. I spent a lot of time walking around here.
Grab Rides – For longer distances or when you prefer not to walk, you can rely on Grab. Since the distances are short, the rides are quite cheap. I used Grab daily to get from point A to point B and never waited for a pick-up for more than 5 minutes. Super convenient!
Boat – To reach the islands from Semporna, speedboats are the way to go. Numerous tour operators provide transportation from island to island for diving and snorkeling adventures. Private trips can also be booked at the jetty in Semporna.
02 – Things to Do and See
Unfortunately, Semporna itself has limited activities to offer. However, the surrounding islands, with their turquoise waters and breathtaking coral reefs, provide unforgettable experiences for adventure enthusiasts and nature lovers.
Diving
Semporna serves as the gateway to Malaysia’s most beautiful islands, including Mabul, Kapalai, and the world-renowned Sipadan Island. The crystal-clear waters, vibrant coral reefs, and an incredible variety of marine life make diving in Semporna an unforgettable experience.
The dive schools in Semporna primarily visit the following islands on a daily basis:
- Sipadan Island – Globally recognized as one of the best dive destinations, it boasts steep walls and an unforgettable diversity of species. Highlights include schools of barracudas and the numerous turtles and sharks.
- Mabul Island – Famous for macro diving, it’s a favorite among underwater photographers. However, visibility here is usually not as good as on the other islands.
- Kapalai Island – Technically a sandbank rather than an island, it remains a popular diving destination near Sipadan. Especially appealing to macro enthusiasts.
- Pom Pom Island – A smaller island near Sipadan and Mabul, offering a mix of shallow coral reefs and steep walls for divers.
- Timba-Timba Island – Particularly known for fantastic drift dives.
Island Hopping
For those who prefer snorkeling, Island Hopping is a fantastic alternative to exploring the stunning islands of Semporna.
An Island Hopping tour typically costs between 120 RM and 200 RM (24 – 40 €), depending on the chosen itinerary. It usually starts around 9 a.m. from the Semporna jetty and includes snorkeling gear, lunch, drinking water, and life vests.
However, I wouldn’t recommend Island Hopping for swimming or beach relaxation. The islands offer little on land, and in some places, you may struggle to find shade. Additionally, there can be a significant amount of litter in certain areas.
Here are some of the destinations of the various tours:
- Bohey Dulang Island – A hilly island with a breathtaking viewpoint overlooking the bay and the marine park. While swimming is not allowed, the view more than compensates for it.
- Sibuan Island – A small island with a beautiful sandy beach and clear, shallow water. Besides a small military outpost, a Bajau village adds a unique charm to the island.
- Kapalai Island – Technically a sandbank, it offers luxurious accommodation along with fantastic coral reefs and snorkeling opportunities.
- Mataking Island – A beautiful island with a long stretch of sand, clear water, and a variety of marine life.
- Pom Pom Island – A small, stunning island with some top-notch resorts.
- Timba Timba Island – A narrow island with a long sand strip surrounded by clear, shallow water.
The easiest way is to book an Island Hopping tour directly on-site through your accommodation or a dive school. You can usually choose from different routes.
Hiking in Nature
If you enjoy being in nature and need a break from water activities, take a look at the fantastic hiking opportunities to viewpoints that Semporna has to offer.
- Bohey Dulang Island – The only island in the Tun Sakaran Marine Park with a hiking trail. The 45-minute ascent rewards you with a breathtaking panoramic view. If you plan to visit the viewpoint, be sure to wear sturdy shoes; sandals or flip-flops are not allowed for the hike.
- Bukit Tengkorak (Skull Hill) – After a 30-minute climb, you’ll have an impressive 360-degree view of the Semporna region. Here, you can also learn more about this archaeological site. The easiest way to get there is to take a Grab from the center of Semporna (around 11 RM; about 2 €). Entrance to Bukit Tengkorak is free.
- Bukit Parapat – An easy, short hiking trail with a great view, especially during sunset. Bukit Parapat is about a 25-minute drive from Semporna; it’s best to take a Grab. The entrance fee is 3 RM (about 0.60 €).
Meet the Bajau-Laut
The Bajau-Laut are sea gypsies who live in wooden houses on stilts above coral reefs or sometimes even on boats. Their homes are located near many islands in Semporna, such as Mabul, Bohey Dulang, Sibuan, or Mantabuan.
To witness the villages of the Bajau-Laut, it’s best to join an Island Hopping tour. I encountered the Bajau-Laut almost every day between my dives. They visit many islands, offering their goods like seafood or fresh coconuts.
Having lived on and from the sea for generations, the Bajau-Laut are exceptional fishermen. Their bodies have adapted to their lifestyle, with larger lung capacity and enhanced underwater vision, making them some of the world’s best free divers.
The Bajau-Laut are also renowned for their traditional boats called ‘Lepa.’ Crafted from wood and beautifully decorated, these boats hold cultural significance. Every April, a special festival called the Lepa Regatta takes place in Semporna. The Bajau-Laut gather with their Lepas at the Semporna harbor, where their daughters welcome visitors with traditional Bajau dances.
03 – Where to Stay
When it comes to choosing accommodation in Semporna, you have various options. You can either stay directly in the town of Semporna or on one of the surrounding islands.
HOTELS IN SEMPORNA TOWN
In Semporna, you’ll find a broader selection of restaurants and small shops. However, the town itself may not charm you with touristy beauty. It primarily serves as a gateway to your activities, whether it’s diving, snorkeling, or exploring the surroundings.
RESORTS ON THE ISLANDS
The islands around Semporna offer a peaceful escape with stunning views. Here, you also have the option to stay in a water bungalow above crystal-clear, turquoise waters. Despite their impressive natural beauty, the islands may not offer much else. If you’re not engaged in daytime activities, you might easily get bored here. Some islands might have limited or no electricity during certain times of the day.
Personal Recommendation: Uncle Chang’s Dive Resort
I spent two weeks at Uncle Chang’s Dive Resort in Semporna, located just a five-minute drive outside of town. It provided an ideal mix of serenity and easy access to local shops and restaurants.
Having seen the islands and their resorts, I must say it would have been too quiet for my taste there, even though I spent most of my days in the water.
04 – Best Food & Restaurants
Being a fishing town, Semporna’s cuisine is characterized by fresh fish and seafood, combined with Malay and Chinese influences.
Given the Muslim culture in Malaysia, you won’t find any pork here – “no pork” signs hang in nearly every restaurant.
Must-Try Dishes
When you’re in Semporna, don’t miss out on these local delights:
- Nasi Lemak: Malaysia’s national dish. This coconut milk-infused rice is served with spicy sambal, dried anchovies, roasted peanuts, hard-boiled eggs, and fried chicken.
- Fish and Seafood: Even though I don’t personally eat fish, the freshness and sustainable sourcing make the seafood here exceptional.
- Kopi: Malaysian coffee with sugar and condensed milk, typically super sweet. Surprisingly not too strong — I usually needed two cups to kickstart my mornings.
Top Restaurants
We were lucky to have a local friend in Semporna who pointed us to the best restaurants, saving us from the guesswork. Here are our favorites:
Seaside Seafood Restaurants – Along the promenade, you’ll find plenty of seafood restaurants offering fresh catches at reasonable prices. Try exotic dishes like stone fish and mantis shrimp. Although I didn’t try the seafood myself, our friend thoroughly enjoyed the meals.
JETTY Seafood BBQ Restaurant – here it’s all about ordering for the table and sharing the feast. They offer a variety of meat, fish, and vegetable options, and allow you to customize the spice level to your liking. The food here is a taste sensation; we found ourselves coming back almost every day. The meat is tender and delicately seasoned, and the garlic-marinated grilled eggplants are simply irresistible. Even the grilled iceberg lettuce was a new and delicious experience.
Summer Breeze Cafe – This charming spot serves up both Malaysian and Western cuisine. We tried various dishes here, from spaghetti to Nasi Lemak and chicken schnitzel, and everything was incredibly tasty. However, the homemade ice cream steals the show and is said to be the best in town. It’s incredibly creamy with fantastic flavors!
Wang Wang Soto House – A Malaysian restaurant serving delicious soups and other delights. Perfect for a hearty breakfast or lunch.
Cham Chuan Kee – Our favorite place for breakfast. According to our friend they’ve got the best bread in town. I haven’t tried much other bread, but this one is seriously good, sort of like brioche. The typical breakfast here is toast with butter and jam, and a cup of Kopi. I also tried the toast with egg and ham (probably turkey ham, they don’t do pork), and it was really tasty.
05 – Is Semporna Safe for Tourists?
Yes, Semporna is a safe destination for tourists.
The area earned a questionable safety reputation, especially among Western travelers, after the unfortunate tourist kidnappings in 2000.
However, the government responded proactively to address safety concerns. Since 2013, there have been no reported kidnappings, thanks to increased security measures. Military presence, with posts and patrols, is now prominent at key tourist spots like Mabul, Sipadan, and Sibuan. The coastal areas of Semporna are closely monitored by the military as well.
During our trips to the islands, daily military checks and passing through various checkpoints were routine. At no point did I feel less safe here than in other diving destinations like Thailand or the Philippines.
06 – Tips for Your Time in Semporna
Weather and the Best time to visit
Semporna enjoys a consistently tropical and sunny climate throughout the year, with a mild monsoon. There’s no distinct “good” or “bad” time to visit.
However, keep in mind two peak seasons: December to February and June to August. During these periods, more tourists head to Semporna, making it a bit trickier to secure a diving permit for Sipadan.
From September to November, you might encounter a bit more rain. But on the upside, there are fewer tourists around, making it easier to get that sought-after diving permit for Sipadan.
Appropriate Clothing
Although tourists have no dress code to follow, it’s important to note that Malaysia is predominantly Muslim. In Semporna, most local women wear a hijab. As a blonde woman, there were moments when I felt a bit uncomfortable walking through the streets in shorts. It might be a good idea to pack appropriate clothing, just in case.
Pack a Travel First Aid Kit
If you plan to stay on one of the islands around Semporna, having a well-equipped travel first aid kit is crucial. Most islands lack a doctor or pharmacy, so it’s wise to be prepared!
07 – Map of Semporna and the Islands
This map lets you explore the mentioned restaurants and activities in Semporna and shows the location of the surrounding islands.
How to use this map: Click the top left to see all locations. Select a location for more info. Open a larger map in a new tab at the top right. Save it to your Google Maps using the star. Enjoy exploring!
08 – Semporna in a Nutshell
For me, Semporna is a place of contrasts. The town itself is dirty and chaotic, but the surrounding islands are an absolute paradise. And the locals here are incredibly friendly and helpful.
If you’re thinking about visiting Semporna, it’s important to note that the town itself is far from being a paradise. However, during the day, you’ll likely spend most of your time snorkeling or diving around the islands, so you won’t be in the town much. If you’re looking for nothing more than good food and a place to sleep in Semporna itself, you can have a fantastic time here.
I personally enjoy the charm of this fishing town and the breathtaking underwater world of the islands, which is why I’ve already planned my next trip to Semporna.
